Paul Weller,  a giant of British pop music, who almost single-handedly brought back the 60s mod movement with his band The Jam, is known almost as much for his style as he is for his music. The Jam wore matching dark suits not unlike The Beatles, whom Weller was known to be a fan of. But after a few short years, their music evolved from short, catchy but simple anthems to a more soulful sound that recalled that of their mod forbearers

Emerging from the working-class town of Woking, Surrey,  Weller’s style was a reinterpretation of Mod fashion that stripped it down to its core. Slim-fitting suits, crisp shirts, skinny ties, and pointed Chelsea boots became his trademarks. In some ways, his style was a rebuke to the scruffiness of the punk scene. Whereas The Sex Pistols might wear a ripped mohair sweater held together with safety pins and The Clash spray-painted slogans on shirts and jumpsuits, Weller preferred a more put-together, less slapdash approach.

As The Jam dissolved in 1982, Weller’s journey of self-reinvention led to the formation of The Style Council with former Dexy’s Midnight Runners keyboardist Mick Talbot. The Style Council’s music, with its R&B and soul leanings, was fresh and exciting. Whereas The Jam was spiky and sharp, all of the hard edges were now smoothed over to create music that was much more sophisticated than The Jam could ever be. 

Weller’s style changed, too. His suit was now a double-breasted number made for him by a Savile Row tailor, and his more casual clothing directly echoed that of the sixties mods like The Small Faces and The Who. Weller adopted a continental chic look that drew inspiration from the tailored nonchalance of Italian menswear; elegant knitwear, sta-prest trousers, loafers, and scarves.

This new direction mirrored the band’s eclectic sound, which blended soul, jazz, and pop with lyrical social commentary. For Weller, the clothes became an extension of the music, a way to communicate the band’s ethos and Weller’s ever-developing approach to modernism.

After going solo, an older Weller’s journey through the 1990s and into the new millennium has been characterized by a seamless melding of the modern with the classic. Weller, who once wrote a song called The Changing Man, continued to evolve. During this period, he even got personally involved with several clothing brands including Pretty Green, a British clothing brand founded by Liam Gallagher of Oasis, known for its mod and rock-inspired fashion, Ben Sherman, who mods have turned to for button down shirts since the 60’s, John Simons, one of the original purveyors of Ivy League Fashion, and Sunspel, a heritage British brand known for quality knitwear. He even had his own brand briefly, Real Stars Are Rare, which blended classic British tailoring with modern twists. The brand is defunct, but if you can get your hands on any of their pieces, you should pick something up. I bought a pair of windowpane trousers from the shop Tonic in Portobello Road, and they are of unusually high quality, a mark of Weller’s impeccable taste. The clothing line was known for its attention to detail, use of quality materials, and designs that evoke the spirit of the mod movement without copying it.

Weller’s involvement with Real Stars Are Rare showcases his deep connection to fashion and style, extending beyond his musical career. By launching this brand, he provided fans and fashion enthusiasts with the opportunity to access garments that mirror his own wardrobe choice, with pieces that are both distinctive and versatile, suitable for various occasions while maintaining a strong sense of individualism.

While his music continued to evolve throughout the 90s, incorporating elements of Britpop, folk, and even electronic influences, his fashion sense remained rooted in the principles of Mod. He consistently champions brands that align with these ideals, often seen in tailored pieces from British designers who share his appreciation for craftsmanship.

What makes Paul Weller the Modfather is his unwavering commitment to personal style as an expression of identity. Weller encourages individuality and rejects the cliches of mod. You won’t find him with a target on his jumper, or wearing a parka emblazoned with patches and badges, or a Union Jack jacket. His look is one of assured confidence, with a reverence for tradition and an eye for contemporary trends. He’s been on this road since he was 17 years old and is now in his 60s, a veteran fashion icon who proves that it’s not only possible but is almost a requirement to dress well as you get older. His hands-on work designing clothes for major heritage fashion brands and new ones alike has further cemented his role as a tastemaker.

In a world that often prioritizes the new, Weller’s commitment to authenticity and style serves as a reminder of the everlasting power of a well-tailored suit and a good pair of shoes. The Modfather’s influence will undoubtedly continue, inspiring future generations to dress with the same conviction.